Guatemala part 2: Lago de Atitlan

Tues. March 18
We woke up for our last morning in Antigua and got a delicious breakfast right across the street from our hostel: cheese omelette, refried beans, fried plantains, bread, and OJ for 30Q ($4). Then we were headed off to Lago de Atitlan, about 2 hours northwest of Antigua. It is a large lake ringed by volcanoes, steep hillsides, and small villages where international tourists and traditional Mayan culture abound. The lake was formed about 85,000 years ago when, after a massive volcanic eruption, the surfaced collapsed forming the hole.

The main city around Lago de Atitlan is Panajachel ("Pana"). From Antigua, you can take a shuttle directly there for about $7 but we were trying to save a little cash so we decided to take the ultra-rockin' public buses which are always more fun. Our first bus was 20 min. for 4Q ($0.50) to Chimaltenango ("Chimal"). It was a medium-sized, dusty, very busy town. During the ride, the driver's helper would climb out the window and onto the roof, while the bus was speeding down windy roads, to toss bags down to disembarking passengers. From there we boarded a bus for Solola about 2 hours for 20Q ($2.70). Along the way there were great views of the hilly countryside and farming villages. In Solola we got off right next to their large market. The majority of the people were in traditional Mayan clothing even, for the first time I've seen, the men. We got on our next bus for Pana, 10 min. for 2Q ($0.25). From there, we walked down to the main public dock and got on a lancha (boat) for our hotel, Casa del Mundo, in Jaibalito, 20 min. for 15Q ($2). Lanchas are small, open motorboats with bench seats across. They can fit about 20 people. Since it was about 4:00pm, the water was very choppy and continuously splashed the passengers. Our bags were on the floor and, seeing they were getting wet, we tried covering them with plastic and I even pulled mine up onto my lap and opened an umbrella to help block the water from the passengers. The boat dropped us off right at our hotel's dock and we went to check in. The hotel is built into a steep hillside right on the lake so there are many stairs. Luckily an employee helped carry our bags up. We got our key and for the first night were in the most convenient room, having the fewest stairs and right next to the dining room/main office.

We walked into our room and were awed. Every room at the hotel has numerous picture windows and a balcony with amazing, expansive views of the lake and volcanoes. Anywhere you stood at the hotel, it was gorgeous. The rooms are also very cutely decorated with regionally made blankets, paintings, rugs, crafts, and carved wooden benches, chairs, armoires, and bed frames. Each room also has a portable light for night walks and the hotel even has a hot water tank, no electrical suicide shower heaters here. There is no way to capture or relay the beauty of this hotel. Shockingly, it was only $25 each per night with 3 of us sharing a private room. A hotel like this in the states would be $400 a night or more.We unpacked, hanging up some of the clothes that had gotten wet on the boat ride, and went to the dining room for a refreshment until dinner was served. You have to order dinner here by 2:00pm and they will customize your meal based on any dietary restrictions you have. It is served family style every night at 6:30pm for 80Q ($10). A bit expensive on our budget but it was well spent. Each night had a salad, soup, main entree, and desert. Every single meal was insanely delicious and large. For the dinner, all the tables are put together in a large L-shape and are covered with tablecloths, flowers, and candlelight. Very romantic.

Wed. March 19
We woke up around 7:00am to the most amazing view of the lake and volcanoes. We put on our swimsuits, ate breakfast while admiring the view, and walked down to one of the swimming decks. There were lounge chairs and different places to climb into the lake for a swim. It was chilly, but not unbearably, and very clear. There were a few Guatemalan kids fishing off the decks too. They caught quite a few fish. We relaxed, swam, and read for a few hours. Click on the link for a view of the deck and our beautiful surroundings: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0m7eJoBd6k.

At about 1:00pm it started to get a little windy and rough so we decided to head into the main town, Pana. We had to switch rooms that night so we got our key and found the new room was up a thousand stairs but still equally gorgeous. Back down on the hotel's dock, we waved down a lancha and rode the 20 min. to town. From there we took a tuk-tuk, a 3-wheeled open scooter taxi, up to a nearby nature reserve, Reserva Natural Atitlan. Admission was 45Q ($6) and we decided to follow the hiking trail around the park that takes about 1 hour. Along the way was a viewing deck of the large animal enclosure. Right when we walked up, we immediately spotted a handful of coatis.

Coatis are close relatives of the raccoon. They are found from the southern US to Argentina, are good tree climbers, have long snouts to sniff out insects and other food, and a have long tails which are usually upright. Amazingly (according to Wikipedia), they can turn their ankles 180 degrees. The curious coatis found a way out of the enclosure and came right up to our feet, making us a little nervous and excited. Click on the link to see them inspecting us: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9hrqLsWxR3U

Seconds later we spotted 3 spider monkeys coming to see what all excitement was about. Spider monkeys are found from southern Mexico to Brazil, are very lanky with long skinny arms and legs, mostly only eat fruit and nuts, can walk on two legs, and are extremely agile with their prehensile tail. Click on the link to see them joining the coatis in their investigation of us: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MSrSWEJZV70

We walked above to another viewing deck and the spider monkeys began performing acrobatic tricks for us. They are so cool. Click on the link to see one in action: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uHvHUb3Hy7A

Tearing ourselves away from the creatures, we continued on the path. We crossed numerous swinging bridges, saw a few waterfalls, coffee and banana trees, and colorful flowers. The park also had camping areas, a limited number of accommodations, canopy tours, and a butterfly garden , although we could find no butterflies in it. Heading back into Pana, we began the frustrating search for transportation to our next destination, Rio Dulce. Normally this would have been a 10 minute venture, but we had one problem... we wanted to go on Good Friday. We hadn't realized this when we planned the trip. We stopped into about 5 different transportation shops and all confirmed that no buses or shuttles were running on Good Friday. They offered us a private shuttle for $90 each! Ha!

It was 5:00pm and we had to get back to the hotel, so we left without booking anything and hoped the next day we would have better luck. The lancha back to the hotel was surprisingly smooth and dry. We enjoyed another succulent dinner and trudged up the million stairs to our room.

Thurs. March 20
At 7:30am we awoke to the most breathtaking views yet. The sky was blue and clear with not a cloud to be found. After breakfast we noticed it was fairly windy so we opted out of swimming and took a lancha to Pana to seek out cheaper transportation options for our next stop. Strangely, we found a travel office right on the Pana dock which offered us a private shuttle, still the only option, for $65 each. Although this was still wildly expensive, we really had no other option, so we booked it.

We explored the main street in Pana for awhile. It was packed with jewelry stalls, travel offices, restaurants, and an equal mix of locals and international travelers. There was a disproportionate amount of "bum travelers". These travelers seems to have it in their minds that looking like a homeless person will make you look cool. I mean, there have been times during previous travel trips where I was unable to shower for 4 days straight but I still brushed my hair, washed my face, and changed my clothes to look decent. I mean, even the cheapest bare-bones hostel still has a shared bathroom for you to use. Whatever. To each his own.

The only really concerning ones are those we have seen with children. In Antigua there was a mom and dad that literally looked homeless with knotted hair, dirt spots all over their bodies and clothes, and no shoes... and they had their 8-year-old son with them who looked in the same state as them. I mean, does the boy go to school, brush his teeth, eat and sleep regularly? Maybe the junkies are regrettably smart enough to realize CPS can't take your kids away if you're in another country. When this family walked down the streets, even the Guatemalans turned to stare at them.

Anyway... we bought some pastries and snacks for the next day's long shuttle ride, used the ATM, and got a drink and snack by the lake. Returning to our hotel in a lancha, we discussed hiking to a nearby village. We asked about it in the hotel and, although many villages were short hikes away, they were uphill hikes. We were feeling sluggish from all the stairs and previous hiking so we just relaxed at the hotel: reading, checking email, enjoying the view, drinking licuados, and showering before dinner. During dinner we met a girl in the Peace Corps stationed in Guatemala. She seemed to be enjoying it but I much prefer Honduras. It is much greener, cheaper, and has nice beaches.

Friday March 21
We set our ipods to wake us up at 6:00am, got dressed, grabbed our bags, and climbed down to the dock for a lancha into Pana to meet our shuttle for Rio Dulce on the Caribbean coast. One problem... there were no lanchas running on Good Friday. Luckily the hotel offered to give us a ride in their boat. This was our last view of the lake. Click on the link to see a quick panoramic video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8pVtjxCK7A

Stay tuned for the last exciting installment of our adventures in Guatemala...