Friday, June 13 - Arrive in Utila, check in hotel, go to the beach
We took the 6:10am bus to La Ceiba to catch the morning ferry to Utila. We arrived at the dock at 9:00am and queued up to buy our tickets. Unfortunately the dock workers had been on strike the previous day so the boat had not run. This meant a lot of people still waiting to ride the ferry. Thus the morning ferry had already reached capacity.
The next ferry was not until 4:00pm and we dreaded the idea of having to waste 6 hours waiting. Luckily there were enough people left over that the ferry decided to make an extra run so we ended up on a special 12:00pm ferry. This is unheard of but made us all very happy. The one way tickets were 414L ($22). The ride was only an hour and was little rough but no too bad. I sat right at the front of the bow watching the island come into view. Some of the people behind me, including Christina, got a little drenched from splashing waves but I evaded it all.
There is one long, narrow main road through the center of Uila Town. It is mostly made of dirt, sand, and concrete. Due to it's narrowness, it can get a bit dangerous. Locals and tourists zoom past on bicycles, 4 wheelers, scooters, but only a handful of cars. You need to keep your eyes open.
Our hotel, Cross Creek, was built around a mangrove swamp so the whole thing was on stilts. There were skinny wooden plank walkways leading to the different parts of the hotel.
After settling in, we were led to the office to sign our life away on the papers for the scuba diving course. Christina and I were taking the first course in scuba diving, PADI's Open Water Diver. (After completing this course you can take even more courses to become an Advanced Open Water Diver, a Rescue Diver, a Dive Master, an Instructor, and much more. The more advanced the program, the more time it takes to complete it.) The Open Water course takes about 3 1/2 days but more about that later.
Today we had free so we got some lunch and stopped by Captain Morgan's Dive Shop to sign up for a day trip to the Water Cay for Saturday. Then we went to the beach, Chepes. Utila only really has two beaches, Chepes Beach and Bando Beach. Both have a few drawbacks from being the ideal tropical Caribbean beach. Chepes beach was covered in a thin top layer of white sand but just underneath was hard white rock. Not all that comfortable to lie on.
Saturday, June 14 - trip to some cays, a magical wonderland, day 1 of scuba class
We got up at 6:00am to get ready for our day trip to the Water Cay. After cooking breakfast, we walked down to Captain Morgan's dock for the 25 minute boat ride to Pigeon Cay for 200L ($10) round trip. On the boat ride we met a girl who had done her Peace Corps service in the Philippines.
Pigeon Cay and Jewel Cay are sister cays connected by a short bridge. Both are very small. There is a narrow sidewalk through the center with only enough room for one building on each side before the island drops off into the water. The cays are just a big coral rocks with buildings built on stilts all over it. There were no beaches. It was very dense and the only open space was where the sea penetrated.
We were told there was good snorkeling but we couldn't seem to figure out where. There was a coral reef but it was too shallow to swim over and we couldn't find a way around it. It was nice enough just lying in the water and relaxing on the beach. It seemed we were in a travel advertisement. We began skimming our newly issued dive manuals before our class started.
The store is also brilliant. It is covered from floor to ceiling with all variety of knick-knacks. You can never see it all.
I also bought some ear drops. There is an eccentric American doctor who lives on the island named Dr. John. He runs the Utila Community Clinic which has the baffling hours of 10:00am until noon. Apparently he makes house calls also for emergencies outside those hours. Anyway, he has formulated his own ear drops to avoid swimmers ear and infections and I was told they're brilliant so I forked out the 100L ($5) for the bottle.
Back at the hotel, we showered, cooked dinner, and went to our classroom for our first dive course. The first session was from 4:30pm until about 7:00pm. Our instructor was Mathieu, a 23 year old French Canadian from Montreal. He was great. Also in our class were a girl and her boyfriend from Santa Barbara, Jolie and Preston.
Christina and I walked around town, used the ATM, and had a beverage on one of the numerous docks to enjoy the evening. It was gorgeous. The black water was completely still and the full moon shimmered off the water. There were perfectly drawn clouds in the sky. We had walked into an enchanting picture. Back at the hotel we had a snack and completed our homework.
Sunday June 15 - Day 2 of scuba class, confined dive #1, open water dive #1, BBQ
We got up at 6:30am, cooked breakfast, and relaxed in the hammock until scuba class began at 8:30am. In the classroom, Mathieu went over chapters 1 and 2 with us and gave us more training about the equipment and everything we need to know. Then we watched the second 90 minute video covering chapters 3, 4, and 5 in our manual. Our homework was to skim chapters 3 and 4 and complete the quizzes at the end.
From about 10:45am until noon, we had a lunch break. With the shared kitchen and inviting hammocks we got to know the hotel staff and other guests very quickly. The hotel staff is a bunch of foreigners with a lot of diving experience that run the front office, take care of all the diving equipment, and teach various courses. There are also locals who do the laundry, sweep, and keep the kitchen clean. The guests were from all over the world but we were all there for diving. Almost everyone, including the staff, was in their 20's. Everyone was very friendly, we all stopped to chat when passing, and invited each other to join in whatever we were doing.
At noon we met up with our dive class again to prepare for our first dive. Mathieu showed us how to get all the gear ready. We loaded it into the boat and connected everything to the oxygen tank. There were other classes on the boat ride with us. The rescue class was the most distracting because the people have to act crazy so the students can practice saving them. It was very chaotic for of first ride out.
We only rode about 15 minutes and then donned our wetsuits, snorkel and fins, and put on our scuba jacket and gear. After we were all outfitted, we worked with our buddy (mine was Christina) to do a step-by-step body check ensuring that everything is working and in properly connected. Finally we put our mask on, our regulator (breathing machine) in our mouth, and jumped in the water.
In confined dive #1, I was a little nervous. It was a bit overwhelming learning about all the equipment and steps to do everything and then once I finally got in the water it was a very weird sensation being underwater and breathing and trying to stay relaxed about it. So we (us 4 students) positioned ourselves on our knees on the sand in a semi-circle around our instructor, Mathieu. There was also a dive master, Josh, as an assistant so we had 1 professional for every 2 students. Once we got positioned, (remember we were still underwater and breathing this whole time) Mathieu starts leading us through the practice exercises.
Some of the exercises were to practice properly descending (while equalizing our ears with depth changes) and properly ascending; we had to take the regulator out of our mouth and put it back in practicing how to clear the water out before breathing; we had to take the regulator out and drop it and use a sweeping arm movement to find it again and replace it in our mouth (it is connected to the tank on our back by a hose); we practiced reading our gauges for remaining air pressure and depth; we took out our regulators and got our buddy to give us their alternate regulator to breathe with; we practiced some hand signals (since you can't talk down there); and we practiced clearing water from our mask.
Crazy. If I wasn't overwhelmed enough just being underwater and trying to breathe naturally, the idea of doing exercises was frightening. During the first exercise I could feel myself started to get a panic attack. I somehow got through it, but the second exercise was to clear out a partially flooded mask. I couldn't get it right and I kept choking on water and putting my head above the water to cough. I tried again but couldn't calm myself down and started crying in my mask and I stood up above the water. I was just very anxious and wasn't even comfortable with just sitting there breathing yet.
One thing that caused me to panic was the noise. The bubbles coming out of the regulator when I exhaled were very loud and it was freaking me out. Snorkeling is a very quiet experience and I pictured diving the same way. In addition, the air we were breathing from the tank was very dry which I wasn't prepared for either. At that moment I was convinced that this was then end and I wasn't going to complete the rest of the course. I was over it.
Well, once I stood up and was panicking, the dive master, Josh, came up too. He tried to talk me through it and calmed me down. I finally was able to get the anxiety to go away and agreed to try the mask exercise with him again one-on-one. This time I was able to do it. I was still considering abandoning the course but I just kept doing the exercises and it slowly became more comfortable. After we all successfully completed each exercise (we were down in the water maybe 45 minutes), we swam back to the boat for a short break.
After a snack and changing to a new oxygen tank, we did our buddy body check again and were ready for our open water dive #1 (to 40 feet deep).
After about 40 minutes, we got back in the boat and stripped off our gear. I rode on the roof back to the hotel. It was freeing and beautiful up there. At the hotel, we carried our gear off the boat, disassembled it, washed it, and put it back where it belongs. It was about 4:00pm.
We showered, walked through town a bit, did our homework, and cooked dinner. Sunday night is the big Cross Creek weekly BBQ so everyone was hanging out. It was fun and we got to know more people. We hung out with a girl from Denmark, a girl from Vancouver, Canada, a girl from England, and a guy from Germany.
At some point it turned into some sort of frat party with some guy getting his legs shaved and people doing snorkel shots (the put on a snorkel and mask and someone pours a drink into a funnel in the top of their snorkel). It was all a little to immature for me. Maybe I'm an old lady but a few others though it was brainless also. Since the rooms are right next to the bar area, they shut everything down at 11:30pm and made everyone either go to their rooms or go out. We went to bed.
Monday, June 16 - Day 3 of scuba class, confined dive #2, open water dive #2, interesting bathrooms
We got up at 7:30am to cook breakfast and get ready for class. The class today was shorter because we didn't have to watch any more videos. We just met in the classroom from 9:00am until 10:00am to go over chapters 3 and 4 and review our previous skills. Our homework was to skim chapter 5 and complete the quiz and do four other practice quizzes.
Then we had a break until noon. Christina and I walked down to Chepes beach (it is about a 20 minute walk from out hotel) and we relaxed for awhile. There were only two other people there besides us. At 11:00am we headed back to the hotel to make lunch and then met up with our scuba class again at noon.
We got all our gear ready, got on the boat, and hooked it all up to the tank.
Todays exercises included: switching breathing from the snorkel to the regulator and back again; completely removing our mask and replacing it and clearing the water from it all while underwater; then we had to take it off the mask and hold it while swimming around for a minute (the instructor helped guide us around as we had our eyes shut) and then replace the mask and clear the water from it; we removed our weight belt and then put it back on while floating at the surface; we took off and put back on our BCD (flotation) jacket; we took out our regulator and breathed with our buddy's alternate regulator while swimming around for 1 minute; we hovered in one place and then floated up and down just by breathing in and out.
Today was much easier and less stressful as I was getting more comfortable with the whole thing. I did all the exercises well. It was our last confined water dive. After about 45 minutes we swam back to the boat for a break and a snack. First we had to do 4 laps around the boat.
Then we hooked up all our gear to a fresh tank and jumped in for our open water dive #2 (to 40 feet deep).
That evening we went to Tranquila in town which has a large deck overlooking the sea. It was a gorgeous evening. There was a full moon, the water was black and completely placid, there were cottony clouds in the starry sky, and an adorable tugboat was anchored right in the center of the picturesque view. Quite a few people from the hotel joined us.
After awhile we all walked up the road to the Treetanic. This is the place at the Jade Seahorse that is built into the treetop. The bathroom there was all decorated and glowed with black light. It was the coolest bathroom ever. After about an hour we went back to Tranquila and witnessed a foosball game and a girl do the juvenile snorkel test. The bathroom at Tranquila was interesting. It is built on a dock so the "toilet" was just a bench covered in tile with a hole cut out in the center and only the sea below the hole. After that, our idea for a night swim was squashed.
Tuesday, June 17 - Last day of scuba class, open water dives #3 & 4, a beach
We had to get up at the unforgiving hour of 6:00am to eat breakfast and prepare for our dives. Today was our last day of class. We got on the boat with all our gear and hooked it up. Ready for our last dives, open water dive #3 & 4 (down to 60 feet deep). Our dive sites that day were Rocky Point and Airport Caves. Our other classmates, Jolie and Preston, couldn't make it because Jolie was sick. They were going to do the dives the next day so it was just Christina and Mathieu and I.
The sea was a little rocky that day so the second we got on the boat Christina started feeling woozy. She had taken Dramamine but I think the waves combined with too little sleep was just too much. She could barely put her gear together and finally we got her in the water. Unfortunately, floating at the surface was just as bad as being on the boat but Mathieu needed us to practice completely taking off and on the BCD (flotation) jacket while up there. I was able to perform the exercise with a little water splashing in my mouth and snorkel but Christina had a harder time. She ended up getting sick and so Mathieu thought it best to just get us down in the water where it was calmer.
We descended and were in the best dive site yet. The water was clear and we saw lots of fish and colorful plants.
Once we got back to the surface Christina's sea sickness immediately returned. Mathieu had her try taking off and on the jacket again. She took a long time and finally he just sort of helped her with it. He felt really sorry for her. She was miserable on the boat ride back and took a nap once we got to the hotel.
We were hungry so we went to get dinner to celebrate but we walked up and down the street forever before finding and open restaurant. It was only 9:15pm. By the time we ordered and finally ate, we were exhausted so afterward we dragged ourselves back to the hotel and passed out.
By the way... it seemed that all of the tourists here smoked. It was so annoying. Everywhere we went there was cigarette smoke constantly. I will definitely not miss that. Yuck!
Wednesday, June 18 - Fun dives, last night
We again awoke at 6:00am for the morning dives. Today we were doing fun dives as certified divers. Our guide was Graham.
We showered, cooked dinner, and paid our bill at the hotel. The Open Water Scuba course was $270 which included 3 free nights and the other nights were only $4 each so our total was $282 for the week. Then we had a drink on a dock to enjoy the view of our last night in Utila. 3 local guys were there and swam in the black water. It was still clear enough to see there entire bodies in it.
To celebrate our last night in Utila, we hiked up to the Treetanic. About 50% of the patrons were friends from our hotel so it was like a little family party. There were 3 guys who had just passed their dive master certification so they were getting the insipid snorkel test.
Thursday, June 19 - Ferry back to Tela
We tried to sleep in but woke up at 9:30am due to the insane humidity. We were dripping in sweat. Honduras had only been this humid a few times before. It was very uncomfortable. We cooked breakfast and tried to get to the beach as quickly as we could. Predictably, right when we got there, it started to rain. We got in the sea anyway. The rain was colder than the water. It was so enchanting watching the droplets bounce off the ocean. It was really lovely.
Back to California
We had Friday to pack up all our things in Tela. On Saturday, we woke up at the wee hour of 2:30am to get ready to go to the airport. By about 3:00pm, we were back in California. It can't believe our 10 months in Honduras is already over. It went by way too fast. It was a truly amazing year and I am glad I got to share it with you, if not exactly in person.
5 comments:
Aunt Terry says... Wow! I cannot believe your trip is all over. Where will you go next? I am ready to read your next story. Love, Aunt Terry
Now that you are writing about underwater stuff, I'm actually genuinely reading every single word...and now it's over? POISON I SAY!
Great last trip. Really enjoyed the underwater pictures. That tolet standing in the water - what?
The Jade place looked really unique. You could not get a photo of that beautiful night scien you described?
Welcome home
Ray said -
What a wonderful life changing experience of getting scuba certified. Snorkeling is great as you know but now you are able to get down among the denizens of the sea and explore their world, knowing full well that you will return up to this crazy supposedly civil side to be in our environment. Best of luck back here at home and anxious to see you.
I'm sad it's over
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