Monday, November 26, 2007

Tegucigalpa - The Capital City

Christina and I decided to go to Tegucigalpa for Thanksgiving weekend. Tegucigalpa is the capital city and is also the largest with 1.6 million people. The next largest city, San Pedro Sula, is only half that size while Tela has a meager 30,000 people. (For comparison, San Diego city has a population of 1.2 million people.)

On Thursday morning, we packed our bags and headed off to catch the bus. It was 200 lemps ($10.50) each since it was a direct bus. Direct means it goes there without stopping (except every 2 hours they stop at a rest area so you can use the restroom and buy food). The other buses are interurbanos and they stop whenever someone on the road flags them down... about every 2 minutes. The interurbanos are much cheaper but always packed with people and, when traveling long distances, they take way too much time. The ride was uneventful and took about 6 hours. We rode through tropical jungles and grass valleys, over streams and rivers, and finally through the pine forests. The pine tree is the national tree of Honduras. There are always many roadside vendors with fruits, vegetables, honey, and artisan wares for sell. Click on the link to watch a video of the roadside on the highway leaving Tela:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lg90kB-6mQE

We arrived in Tegucigalpa at about 4:30pm and were thrust into the crammed, traffic-congested city. Ahh, I always enjoy the hustle and bustle and chaos of big cities... for a few days anyway. As with most major cities, the gap between rich and poor became glaringly obvious. Our bus let us off in one of the more impoverished neighborhoods, Comayaguela. As most of the tourist activities are located near the center of town, we took a taxi there. After the driver let us out, we walked to a few hotels to compare prices and amenities. One hotel, Nuevo Boston, had private bathrooms, 24-hour hot water, and was 185 lemps each ($10) a night. It was a ways from the center though and on a very busy street. We decided to drag out suitcases around a bit more. We finally stumbled upon the Hotel Iberia situated in a quiet alley next to the Iglesia Los Dolores, probabaly the 2nd best church in town after the cathedral. The hotel had some rooms with private bathrooms, hot water from 6-10am, and was only 110 lemps each ($5.80) a night for the private room. The rooms even had blankets and towels! The staff was very friendly also. By the end of our weekend, we both agreed this really was the best hotel in the city (in our price range anyway).Since it was Thanksgiving, we decided to splurge on dinner and went to Pizza Hut (there are no fast food or American restaurants in Tela (happily)). We split a cheese pizza and had the salad bar. It ended up being 120 lemps ($6.30) each, more than our hotel room! In Tela, we would not normally pay more than 50 lemps ($2.50) for dinner and drinks. Afterward we walked around a bit and discovered an establishment with Hondurans performing karaoke. It was just as annoying as Americans doing karaoke. The young man at the table next to us got sick all over the floor and his friends had to help him out the door. How lovely.

We woke up around 7:30am Friday morning and proceeded to take our promised hot showers. Unfortunately, for some reason, the water was freezing that morning. I walked to the post office to mail off the pen pals letters for the kiddies in San Diego. Then we got breakfast (a veggie torta for 25 lemps ($1.30)) and headed off to follow the Lonely Planet travel guide's walking tour of
Teguc. Despite the map's best efforts to confuse us, we eventually found each attraction.

We began in the central park and toured the cathedral. It was stunning with high, domed ceilings, many realistic statues (I swear their eyes were real), and an exquisite, floor-to-ceiling, gold-plated altar at the front. I would loved to have taken pictures but it is deemed disrespectful.
We continued on to the National Art Gallery.

We got in for the student price (10 lemps - $.0.50, regular admission is 25 lemps - $1.30) due to our volunteer status. The 2-story museum was built around a quaint garden. The first floor housed various native artifacts (bowls, statues, and tools) and ancient religious paintings. The second floor mostly focused on modern art, some of which was very offbeat and conceptual: a clay dog being hung by a noose, a room where china plates with one symbol painted on each were organized in rows on the floor, a photo series of a pig being butchered, 10 measuring tapes placed in circle with the tapes pulled out and pointing to the ceiling, a pitch-black room with nothing but a hidden speaker producing loud thunderous noises, etc. All very eccentric.The next stop on the map was the Museum of the National Identity. They did not allow photos to be taken inside. Once again we got in for the student price of 25 lemps ($1.30) while regular admission was 50 lemps ($2.60). This was a two-story museum but the bottom floor only housed offices and empty rooms. The upstairs had a very large section dedicated to Honduran history with photos, artifacts, maps, and such. A few rooms were dedicated to modern art. My favorite were two rooms displaying amazing, black and white photographs of Tenochtitlan, Mexico taken by Francisco Mata Rosas. Click on the link to see some of them: http://www.zonezero.com/exposiciones/fotografos/matafco/index.html

In order to reach the next destination, La Leona Park, we had to climb up very twisty, narrow streets. Just as I was thinking it was reminiscent of San Francisco, I passed a pulperia (small convenience store) whose name reflected my thought. Once again the drastic discrepancy in wealth was obvious:And there was more art to be found on a garage. This is the first town in Honduras were I have seen proper garages. The park itself was rather small but had colorful, blooming flowers and a great view of the entire city:Click on the link to see a panoramic video of the city:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l_kR_X8OJqQ

Proceeding back down the hill, we stopped at a small Honduran military museum adjacent to an even smaller park. The guide let us in for free and showed us some large guns and weapons, busts of famous Hondurans, stacks and stacks of old newspapers, paintings, uniforms, and medals. The museum was okay but the guide was hilarious, and a little creepy, because he kept stopping to comment on how beautiful my toes were and that he wanted to lick them. Yuck!

We continued on over a bridge which led out of downtown and into Colonia Palmira. This is the neighborhood my friend, Kristen, lived while volunteer teaching here last year. It is a relatively nicer and more expensive area. They had a lot more restaurants with menus comparable to nice American restaurants, in both quality of food and price. They even had hummus. I tried to keep it cheap so I ordered a scramble egg, a bagel with cream cheese (they do not have this in Tela and I crave it all the time), and orange juice. Then we split an apple pie a la mode. My total still came to 140 lemps ($7.40)!

We headed back over the bridge to downtown for refreshments and a cheaper dinner. We decided upon the Tobacco Road Inn. They had many nice paintings, statues, and a very large book exchange for travelers. One guy I talked to was from Germany and had been traveling through Central and South America for 10 months now. He was returning to Germany for Christmas and then would be headed off again to continue traveling (independently wealthy apparently). He was with a girl he met in Guatemala and they had come to Honduras together for a few days. She was from Canada and was heading off to a 6-week yoga, meditation, and cleansing retreat in Costa Rica. She had come from Canada with another girl but when they were in Mexico the friend met a guy and decided to stay there until the planned retreat.

On Saturday morning I got up at 7:30am to try my luck with the shower again. I was pleasantly surprised to find hot water come gushing out. It was very nice. We walked down to the National Theatre to see if we might be able to catch a play that weekend but, alas, it was being remodeled and wouldn't reopen until January. Then we found a small cheap restaurant for breakfast. By the way, there is an overwhelming amount of donut places here, like right next to and across from each other. How many donuts can people eat? It reminds me of Starbucks in the states.

Christina wanted to do some Christmas shopping so we decided to head to Valley of the Angels. We took a 10-minute taxi to the bus station. Then a 30-minute bus ride through the pine tree-covered mountains. Valley of the Angels is a small village reminiscent of Copan with cobblestone streets and red-tile roofs.
The streets are packed with artisan souvenir shops. I almost always despise shopping (unless maybe it is for books or CD's) so we decided to split up. I walked through some surrounding neighborhoods, went to an art gallery, explored an antique shop/restaurant, went in the church, and then had a refreshment on a terrace with a nice view.At 1:30pm I met up with Christina to get lunch. I had a quesadilla and a baleada for only 16 lemps ($0.85). Then we hopped on the bus headed back to Tegucigalpa.

Once in town, we hopped on another bus to go up the hill to the United Nations park, commonly referred to as El Picacho. Although Christina and I insisted on pronouncing it like the Pokemon character (PI-ca-chu) because we thought it was funny, it is actually pronounced pi-CA-cho. Anyway... we got to the park and told the guard at the entrance we wanted to go to the zoo. He said it was 15 lemps ($0.80) to get in the park and the zoo was just down the road. So we paid and walked to the zoo. As we approached, we noticed a gorgeous view of the entire city and stopped to take a photograph. Then we went to the zoo. Doesn't it look inviting? The ticket man explained that the zoo was closed. He said we could come back tomorrow. We explained that we were leaving tomorrow and begged him (in Spanish) to just let us quickly walk around the zoo. He couldn't be persuaded. We didn't understand why the man at the main gate didn't just tell us it was closed. We walked back to the main gate a bit upset and respectfully requested our money back. I debated with the guard for awhile (all in Spanish) but he wouldn't budge. I even tried showing him our volunteer ID cards. What a rat fink! This was the only reason we had come to the park and now we wasted money on buses and admission. We were both quite miffed.

Since we were in the big city, we decided to take advantage of it and go to a movie. There are no movie theatres in Tela. They were showing 3 movies, all American in English with Spanish subtitles. We decided on a scary one, Saw IV, or as it was titled here, El Juego de Miedo (the game of fear). It was only 30 lemps ($1.50) and the theatre wasn't too bad. We went back to the hotel for an early night.

On Sunday we awoke again at 7:00am to hot showers. We tried to get breakfast but apparently all stores and restaurants open late on Sundays so we had to eat at Wendy's (yuck!). Then we checked out of the hotel and took a 15-minute taxi to the bus stop, checked in our bags, and hopped on the 5-hour bus ride back to Tela. I am beginning to realize I enjoy staring at the views on the bus rides just as much as exploring the places I go.

Monday, November 19, 2007

Copan - Cobblestone, Ruins, and Soccer

The founder of our school, Graciela, and her daughter, Vanessa (she is a teacher at the school and the one who recruited us and helped us with all our needs), invited us to join them and some others on a trip to Copan. They knew a bus owner who was driving a group so it would be direct and free. We instantly agreed. We were told to meet them Saturday morning in the central park at 6:00am to get on the bus.

We knew the bus would never leave on time so we woke up, ate breakfast, packed, and got to the park at 6:15am. Of course we were the first ones to arrive. The others slowly trickled in and we boarded the bus at 7:30am. The people we knew were Graciela, Vanessa, her adorable 3 year old son Anthony, the P.E. teacher from our school and his wife, the high school principal and her husband, and the others were strangers, mostly 20-something men and women.
(In the photo left to right: Christina, Graciela, Anthony, Vanessa, me) I spent the ride alternating between sleep (which was difficult since the driver was blaring music the entire ride. Quite a varied selection: reggaeton, Kenny Rodgers, CCR, John Fogerty, Bob Marley, Shakira, George Jones, R.E.M., UB40, etc.) and absorbing the breathtaking landscape of grass fields, lush mountains, pine forests, farms, and small villages. We stopped once to use the restrooms and eat a snack. After about 6 hours we reached Copan. It is right on the Guatemalan border.
Copan is an adorable little town with cobblestone streets, red tile roofs, Honduran handicrafts, and three-wheeled scooter taxis. It is protected by the government so only certain vehicles are allowed to drive on the roads. Our bus had to park outside town. Christina and I walked around exploring all the artisan shops. I bought a few Christmas gifts.
We went to a restaurant stuffed with antiques: records, sewing machines, typewriters, etc. Very much to my liking. On the way out, I discovered this old movie projector.

We went back to the hotel to shower. The hotel was a maze of confusion trying to find our way up stairs, around corners, and over bridges to find the room.
It was very nice though and pretty cheap 150 lemps each (about $8). It was freezing at night though because all the hotel gave us was sheets and no blankets (very common in Honduras. Most hotels also do not provide towels, you have to bring your own. This is due to the fact that they usually have to hand wash and air dry everything). I slept in long pants, socks, and a thermal long sleeve shirt. In the middle of the night my feet were so cold I pulled my sweatshirt on over my feet and wore it as pants. (This was the same experience we had freezing at the Jungle River Lodge in Pico Bonito). I slept curled up in a ball with the blanket over my head trying to trap in as much heat as possible. I hate being cold! Christina and I went to dinner and strolled around town. We met a business owner from Chico, California. He had never been to Honduras before but somehow heard about a tavern for sale. He came down to check it out and immediately bought it and moved here. It was now a year and a half later and he seemed very happy with his decision so far. The boy's got guts.
We were told to meet downstairs at 8:00am to leave for the Mayan ruins. So of course Sunday morning when we walked downstairs at 8:00am only one person was there and they told us we would leave at 9:30am. So we went and got breakfast and walked around town. We met back at 9:30am and waited awhile. People finally began walking to the bus. We left promptly at 10:30am.

The Copan Mayan ruins are just outside the center of town so the bus ride was only 5 minutes. Because the cost of living and income in Honduras is so much lower than the U.S., most tourist places have different prices for Hondurans and for foreigners. The ruins is no exception. The rate for Hondurans is 80 lemps ($4) and for foreigners is 280 lemps ($15). Christina and I were hoping since we were with a large group of Hondurans we would be able to get in for the cheaper rate because we couldn't afford 280 lemps. The principal had us stay in the back and told us not to speak (to hide our limited Spanish abilities). Unfortunately they asked my citizenship and I was charged the foreigner rate (Graciela luckily offered to split it with me because she did not want me to miss the ruins). Due to Christina's dark skin and eye color, she was able to slip in with the Honduran rate (She also generously offered to split the difference of her and my entrance fees). At the entrance there were many macaws, the national bird of Honduras.
There were also a few of these rodent-like creatures. It is most likely an agouti (thanks sharky).
The ruin grounds were fairly large.
They have guides you can hire to give you more information and history but it costs extra and we didn't have that much time anyway. They also have tunnels you can explore but they also cost extra. We got to see some intricate statues. There was a larger than life head.There was a soccer stadium where we were told that it was the Mayan custom to offer the losing team as a human sacrifice to the gods. I think you would quickly run out of soccer players. There were many other buildings also. You could climb on top of some and get a good view of the surrounding countryside.These stones had inscriptions which tell the entire history of the Mayan civilization. They are so important to the Mayan people, one guide was heard comparing them to the Bible.We headed back to the bus at noon for the ride to the soccer game (this was the main purpose of the trip for the other passengers). At 2:30pm we arrived in Santa Rosa de Copan. Everyone on the bus were huge fans of the Tegucigalpa soccer team, Olimpia. The majority donned soccer jerseys in support. We parked an walked up the dirt road to the stadium. The street was packed with people selling tickets "por sol o por sombra" (for sun or for shade), people begging for money so they could watch the game, and vendors selling jerseys, hats, scarves, etc. We bought the tickets for sun as they were cheaper, 120 lemps ($6). We got inside the gate, our purses were searched by police, and tried to find seats. The stands were already packed, mostly with men. At one point we passed a group of fans from the opposing team and they squirted water on us. We found seats in the first row of the bleachers. I don't think I would have liked being squished in rows further back. It seemed impossible to escape and very claustrophobic. And the back row had no railing so you could just fall right off. In front of the bleachers was a small walkway where vendors continually passed selling peanuts, soda, ice cream, water, chips, and team paraphernalia. Then there was a high, barbed wire fence surrounding the field. Many people we pushed up against it to watch. Some people even climbed it to get a better view. A few people set off fireworks which were illegal. Apparently Olympia has a large, dedicated group of super fans that travel to every game to watch them. These super fans consisted of 18-24 year old gutter punks. They were the only cheerleaders around and tirelessly chanted songs throughout the entire game. The hung flags from the fence. I liked them immediately. At one point they even sprayed a fire extinguisher towards the stands...which caused the police in their riot gear to appear. There was some pushing and shoving amongst fans but no real fights broke out. Behind the stands you could buy freshly made pupusas and soda and beer. Unlike in the states, no one here was really drinking. I am sure this helped stem the violence. I think the game would have been a lot scarier if they were all drunk.As I am not really much of a sports fan, Christina, Vanessa, and I all decided to leave after the first half. We walked to the gate and found ourselves locked inside. The police explained that they always lock the gate until the second half starts. Then they unlock it and anyone can come in for free. So we waited about 5 minutes and they opened up the gate. If you notice, Hondurans seem to have an obsession with confetti. We went back to the bus. While waiting for the others, I walked across the street to a building and asked the guard to use the restroom. I forgot to mention earlier that the stadium had no restroom (and we were locked in remember. The men just went wherever they wanted but what were the ladies to do? There wasn't even a bush or wall to hide behind). The guard led me to his office, which he apparently sleeps in. Here was his bedroom: And here was his bathroom (which he allowed me to use. No toilet seat, but I had toilet paper in my purse since I make a habit of carrying some with me everywhere here):Once the game ended, all the others returned to the bus. We headed back to Tela at 5:00pm. Yet again, the bus driver blared his random assortment of music the entire ride. The boys in the back of the bus got a bit rowdy, yelling, farting, dancing with each other, tossing around a prophylactic balloon, and other generally annoying behavior. They continued in this fashion most of the ride.

We stopped in Progresso for food. Unfortunately, they stopped at Burger King. Yuck, if they only knew what they were eating! A little after 10:00pm we reached Tela. The weekend was very fun and jam-packed. I couldn't believe we had only left the day before and accomplished all that.

Oh, and if you notice, it was nice and sunny all weekend...the next day in Tela it was raining and it hasn't stopped since. It is more flooded here than ever. My homemade rock walkway is fully covered with water drenching our feet when leaving and returning. The water has been shut off again also. We'll see how long it is off for. We wanted to go to Roatan, one of the bay islands, for Thanksgiving weekend but it is raining there also. We may head inland to Tegucigalpa, the capital, and hope for drier weather. Hope you all have a great Thanksgiving and save a turkey's life.